I might be starting to lose it.

I ended Day 15 with a conundrum; my rain jacket had gone rogue. I combed the hut accommodation and the surrounding paddocks for signs of a crumpled heap of water-repellant fabric, but my search was in vain. While there had been little rain on the trail so far, the 4-day forecast looked threatening. I had to find a replacement urgently or risk developing hyperthermia in the unruly weather. I hoped a town by the name of Melrose, the oldest settlement in the Flinders Ranges, would come to my rescue. But first, I had to scale the aptly-named Mount Remarkable.

Daily Diary – Day 16

Other than a sharp, sweaty ascent in the first hour of the morning, the remainder of Day 16 was pleasantly downhill. A cloudless blue sky and a gentle, soothing breeze assisted my circumnavigation of the towering mountain. As concerned as I was about my wardrobe predicament, my mind was fixated on the astonishing sky-high scenery.

Mount Remarkable lies within the area of the Nukunu Aboriginal Tribe. The Nukunu name for the mountain was Wangyarra – ’arra’ meaning running water.
environment.sa.gov.au

This stretch through the Mount Remarkable National Park also incorporated the most diverse range of wildlife since I began the adventure at the Parachilna Gorge Trailhead. Grey kangaroos, echidnas, emus, blue-tongued lizards, an enormous variety of birdlife and a smattering of grazing sheep were all out enjoying the sunny winter’s day.

Mount Remarkable Landscape Heysen Trail

My head had cleared and my troubles had eased. The only challenge I faced was the unpredictable rocky terrain that shifted beneath my boots. But boy, the cascading scree formations created a unique viewing platform.

Mount Remarkable Scree Formation

Don’t look down.

I soon arrived in Melrosechecked into the iconic Mount Remarkable Hotel Motel and collapsed on my soft fluffy bed. I rechecked my messages. Over the past few days, as my phone reception clicked back into gear, I received several messages from an old mate, Alex. He, and his girlfriend Celia, were hiking in the region and wanted to know if I was interested in a schnitzel dinner. It goes without saying, of course! But first, I had an urgent engagement with a washing machine.

What followed was a night of in-depth conversation, some well-earnt beers, another glorious chicken parmy (yes, I have an addiction) and a ‘trail miracle’. During our chat, I mentioned that I had lost my rain jacket. As it would happen, they had packed a spare that they had owned for several years but never worn and very kindly offered it to me. Of all the random luck… rain jacket conundrum solved! Legends!

Climbing Mt Remarkable

One of the few ascents on Day 16.

Since departing Quorn on Day 12, every inch of the undulating trail had drained my energy. From transversing lengthy ranges to navigating National Parks, to clambering over mountaintops; the path was beyond epic and my legs were feeling the brunt of the journey. By the time I finished Day 16, my body was, quite literally, aching for a break. Thankfully, I had organised a rest day, complete with napping and fattening, in Melrose on Day 17.

All the details.

Trail distance covered

12.35km

Price

Available here.

Climate

The region has hot dry summers with cool to cold nights and cool, wet winters. Autumn and spring can be warm and mild with occasional periods of rain or showers.

Terrain

The mornings’ sweaty climb was immediately worth it once you see the view from the other side of the mountain. Foreworn your ankles that there are unstable rocks to navigate.